Wednesday, 17 April 2013

Salento and Popayan, Colonial Towns, Colombia

Still heading south we stay in more Colonial towns which are all beautiful in their own right, the first being Salento. We head up to Plantation House, via jeep, our accommodation for the next couple of nights. Salento is set amongst stunning green mountains and survives on coffee production, trout farming and tourists. Many of the cafes, bars and shops are run by local people returning from America after fleeing the drug lords years ago. Great for travellers as some of the local foods have a great twist. So after a good walk around the town it was back to our cottage and we lit the fire, stayed up until 0200 listening to music,each with their own thoughts, happy days. The second day was much the same and it's so peaceful in these wonderful surroundings.

We head off, our next destination is Popayan, a larger town with a different style of architecture, large white colonial facades. It's nickname is "La Ciudad Blanca" or the "White City". This was the capital of southern Colombia until Cali took over. We stayed in "Hosteltrail" which was an excellent hostel facility, beautifully clean rooms and everything you needed. Being well set up for many adrenaline sports we decided to take to the mountain bikes and complete a 30 km trail, mainly downhill, which sounded a good day out. I haven't been on a bike for approx 30 years so this was going to be interesting. Six of us, Pete and Kitsten, Geoff, Heather, Antony and I got into two trucks loaded with our mountain bikes up to Agua Hirviendos sulphur springs at 2400 metres. The journey took approx one hour, climbing steadily up twisting mountain roads. The slight snag being a couple of downhills for about three km which meant uphill coming back. Upon arrival at our start point Pete, Kirsten and Geoff stated they were calling it off because of the uphill sections and the fact apart from Antony and Heather no one had been on a bike for years. In for a penny, I stated, along with Heather and Antony we would continue to do it. The others decided to drive back to where it was downhill all the way. After a little practice in the car park I was ready to tackle the route but not before a good soak in the sulphur springs, stinky or what. After 45 minutes of varying strengths of stink,we were ready and set off down a rough track. We'd gotten about 1/2 a km when we had our first stop, fresh strawberries and fresh homemade double cream from their own cow, unbelievably delicious. I bought some homemade cookies as well. Back on the road another km or so we stopped in the town for lunch, some deep fried goodness from a lovely old lady. Within fifteen minutes we'd stopped twice and stuffed our faces with all bad but delicious delicacies. Thinking we'd better take this seriously we set off again, Antony tearing off and leaving Heather and I to our own pace. It was a brilliant ride back through stunning scenery, tearing down long sweeping bends at breakneck speed, fabulous. The only slight downside was the up hill sections. We managed to select the correct gear and continue at a steady pace whilst I personally had my strawberries, cream and deep fried goodness several times over :))). Unfortunately Pete, Kirsten and Geoff had left us a shot of rum at another stop nearer the end, but flying past at a rate of knots we were too tired to cycle back. It was a great day out. My backside had gone numb and my legs and calfs were not functioning properly for a few days, I couldn't let on, I want an Odyssey Extreme Sports T shirt ha ha. I figured the fact we were going to a salsa club to practice a few moves would work the stiffness out of the muscles...it didn't work !!! I was walking like John Wayne. Nevertheless it was good practice for more mountain biking later on in the trip.

We continued our journey down the PanAmerican highway to the border town of Ipiales, a dead end town which the guide books describe as not worth visiting other than staying the night before crossing the border, they were right. We stayed in the hotel Isabel which again did the job with clean and tidy services. A chicken n chips supper and the worst coffee and cake I've ever tasted, rough !! The following morning Geoff gets up to announce his camera has gone missing. I asked if he was sure. Yep it was charging on the side table and was no longer there. There were a few expletives as we searched the room and found the window slightly ajar. A loud outburst from Geoff stating the Ba----ds had also nicked his havaianas ( flip flops) he went mad. He was more concerned about his flip flops than his camera. I again asked him if he was sure....definitely. I went off and searched the truck, back and searched the room top to bottom, Geoff also checking his rucksacks, they were nowhere to be found. I let Pete know who was just about to inform the hotel when Geoff re appeared. He'd found them, camera wedged between his flip flops in a safe compartment of his rucksack, what a joy stick !! I'll tell you I'm putting in for carers allowance if he keeps this up :))

We hit the border at Ipiales for our entry into Ecuador and everything went smoothly until I stated that this was the quickest crossing we had encountered, wrong !! Poor old Karen and Steve ( Liverpool fan) got detained and were refused entry. Apparently they had been to Ecuador a few years ago and the exit stamps from that trip were in old passports, passport control had upgraded their system and there was no record of them exiting. We were really concerned :) and continued our journey on to Otavalo where we had a great day around the old town enjoying the clean surroundings, the indigenous people's and taking photos. We also had several beers toasting our loss but thankfully Stevo, Karen and Kirsten, who'd remained to assist, caught us up about ten hours later.

And so the journey continues heading towards Quito and one of my most looked forward to parts of the expedition, that of flying to the Galapagos. Before Quito we hit the equator line and take time out for a photo shoot in all manner of poses.

Until then mes amigos,

Adios

Tony x

1-2 in the back of a jeep heading up to Plantation House
3-6 In cafe Brunch catching up on e- mails, admiring all the quips and Geoff saling the burgers
7. Geoff and Nessa on the swings
8. Local village church
9. Local coffee machine from a bygone era
10. Beautiful views all along the route, mountainous, dramatic, eerie, awesome.......
11-13. Popayan village architecture
14. Geoff and I celebrating life, Robin squinting, Stevo with a small beer, Pete and Kirsten, Geoff teaching Kirsten a few moves
15. Heather and I in the sulphur baths with a sneaky Antony in the background
16-18. At the local farm stuffing fresh strawberries and cream, taste was unbelievable. The two farm kids who giggled and laughed infectiously when I showed them some photos.
19-22. The cycle ride, Heather and I and another two lovely kids cheering us on .



















































En route to Medellin, Colombia

28.03.13

It's a long drive day as we head towards the city of Medellin through some ever changing countryside. Open fields, plains give way to mountains and valleys gently climbing into the cloud forests, beautiful. We are stopped regularly at roadblocks by the army / police who are armed to the teeth but are very good natured, waving, smiling and occasionally coming on board for a closer look. It's slow progress and Pete try's to find a campsite. It looks promising until the local wants $25 per tent. Politely informed where he could go we make slow progress a few km further up the winding mountain side where we find a local family who are building another house next to theirs. They are lovely people who let us stay for free. Tents pitched, dinner on the go, this is another of those great bushcamps. It's great being back in the tent and I have no problem in dropping off to sleep thinking of family and friends. Slight rainfall overnight makes for a fresh morning and we're up at 0530. Geoff bursting for a wee heads for the edge of the mountainside, is looking across the canyon about to get his tackle out, when he looks to his right to see the whole family on the first floor of their house watching him. Totally surprised he feigns a yawn, stretches his arms and walks off. :)) the family apparently have been up most of the night watching the 24 gringos camping, cooking and going about their general business. We took photos of them, they took photos of us, we showed them around the truck, we all smiled and laughed and this is what overlanding is all about, meeting the people,who I must say have waved, laughed and called out to us all along the trip, but it appears more so in Colombia. Waving and saying our goodbyes after Pete had given them a thank you we continued on our merry way with more great memories.

Medellin
29.03.13
Medellin in the 80's was the cocaine capital of the world under the violent leadership of Pablo Escobar. Gun battles were common leading to the highest murder rates anywhere in the world. This regime came to an end in 1993 with Escobar's death and a massive clean up project followed. It is allegedly now one of the most secure and accessible destinations in the country.
We finally arrive at our hotel, Conquistador, guarded by security carrying a two foot machete on the edge of the red light district. Entry via a steel gate we are shown to our rooms, lovely and clean with good facilities. The next couple of days are spent exploring the sprawling city and generally chilling out. Security guards are seen carrying sawn off shotguns, seems to be the norm. After dark you're offered all manner of drugs and women. In fact some rooms in the hotel are offered on an hourly rate and Geoff took great delight in greeting the couples using the room opposite in his best Spanish. This was a great couple of days contrasting the seedier side of life and enjoying the up and coming tourist routes.

We continue our journey through the centre of Colombia heading south towards the Ecuadorian border.

1-4 Our bush camp on a local family's building plot high in the cloud forest. It was an amazing view in the morning. Pictures of the family and them with us in front of the truck.
5-6. The main trade is transporting cargo and you often see beautifully kept HGV's.
7-12. The sprawling city of Medellin, cable car and city shots.

Adios

Tony x




























Wednesday, 10 April 2013

Cartagena de Indias, Colombia.

A selection of beautiful door knockers from Cartagena.

What a beautiful place

Adios

Tony x