We left the hotel at 0900, Brazilian time, with our guide Patrick. Patrick was accepted in the Rocinha favela firstly as a local and then as a guide and as long as we were in his company we were safe, apparently, but it certainly didn't feel that way. We drove through the city heading for one of the biggest favelas, Rocinha. It is built into the mountain side overlooking the more affluent areas, the beautiful sands, sea and towering granite pinnacles. It is one of the largest and most densely populated urbanisation slums with anywhere between 100 ~ 200 thousand inhabitants crammed into 0.80 sq miles. The buildings are shanty type affairs stacked on top of one another, often illegally built. No one knows where the name Rocinha originated from, however one theory was many years ago the middle class came to buy their wares and asked where the fruit and veg came from, the reply was "Rocinha" meaning little farm.
The area is a dense warren of alleyways, cut throughs, open sewers, and snickets which provide access for its inhabitants and escape routes for the many gangs that operate within the favela. It is such a warren that the police struggle to come to terms with its geography when attempting to install law and order and deal with the drug related problems. Indeed there is a clamp down at present as the authorities are attempting to rid the area of these gangs before the 2014 World Cup and the 2016 Olympics. Taxi drivers won't enter the area and drop you nearby. The gangs are armed with a wide variety of weapons ranging from knifes to heavy duty firearms. We are informed to stay in a tight group, don't stray, don't stare, don't take photos of people, they get upset and you could end up in an altercation, and most of all keep moving until Patrick stops.
We are dropped off at the highest point of the favela, on the edge, and make our way towards an alleyway. At this entry point we meet two police officers dressed like paratroopers armed to the teeth. Patrick nods and we pass, we're in, and straight away you get the feeling of enclosure, eyes staring, a general feeling of uneasiness. Within seconds the alleyways twist, turn and run off in all different directions, without a guide you'd be totally lost. The first thing that hits you is the thousand or so different smells from washing, cooking and sewage. Patrick explains that we are in the sought after area of the favela, at the top, where the air is fresh and clean. As you descend the stench is unbearable and disease rife as all sewage, rubbish and pollution congregates in a central area. Most of the buildings are illegally built with no building regulations. Indeed many collapse resulting in death. Landlords claim rents on these shabby constructions and then there's the protection money to be paid to the gang governing that area. Electricity is mainly obtained from illegal hook ups and this is evident from the thousands of cables strung across the paths and alleys, so much so they block out the little light there is.
We are constantly descending the myriad of paths, sometimes having to squeeze through the building lines. All of a sudden we are told to stop, bunch up and keep to the right. There are sounds of a commotion ahead. The police are carrying out an operation, stop and search and two plain clothes guys in t shirts wearing caps on backwards suddenly appear holding handguns out in front of them, fingers on the triggers, left hand over the barrel. They acknowledge us as they pass. Seconds later two more military style officers also pass, we proceed. We enter a stairwell and proceed to the roof, the view is incredible. Hundreds of thousands of brick or concrete dwellings covered in millions of cables and wires. Right next to us is an open sewer with several pipes emptying into it which in turn disappears through and amongst the shanty's. As we talk excrement emptys into this sewer and the smell is dreadful. Whilst on this subject the whole path system is covered with human and animal excrement which you are constantly avoiding.
On first appearance life here is portrayed as all doom and gloom, however there are rays of light and various local and Government schemes in place to improve living and employment conditions. At present they are trying to rid the favela of the gangs, there's a lot of employment available with the forthcoming World Cup and Olympics, Government projects for schools, education and projects like the one we are on where a percentage of the money from the tour goes back into that community. This is recognised by the community and partly why we are allowed entry as long as we follow the rules.
Next we visit an artists house where several artists display their works all based on the favela. I bought a small painting and had my picture taken with the artist, Rachel, a jolly women who is giving back to the community in her own way. As we pass by, in general the everyday locals are friendly if not curious to see us. Onwards to an infant school where it's siesta time, part of our fee funds this school and one class does a little dance for us. Moving on we meet a couple of drummers beating an old oil drum, again a group of youngsters dancing. We find kids in every alley either playing alone or with their friends. One of the biggest pastimes here is flying a kite and you see many as you walk through but this has disturbing consequences. The kites are flown from the roof tops, which don't have walls or balconys, resulting in about two thousand accidents a year involving children, many of which are fatal.
We enter a dark little shop and are amazed at the selection of fresh pies, cakes, doughnuts which are all cooked on site by the women in front of us. It's lunchtime and for a few rials we taste the wares, absolutely delicious. Just outside there is a couple of stalls selling wrist and ankle bands made from electrical wire, beads, string, cotton and anything else they can get their hands on to scratch a living. We are informed that within the favela you can obtain anything you desire and that money is made from anything. This is evident from the recycling that could be seen, massive sacks containing squashed tin cans, plastic bottles, wiring, you name it someone re cycled it.
As we descended we were given photo opportunities but I must admit whilst my large canon lens was hanging around my neck in operative, I took a chance and my small Olympus was clicking away hidden by my clothes and hat at every opportunity. Purely by luck and a keen eye I got some great pictures of the kids in their environment, a lady trying to hook up into the electricity, a spotter keeping an eye on us and general building shots as we progressed through.
Approximately two hours later after descending into the stench of the lower and central favela we popped out suddenly onto a road and looking back up the hillside could not believe where we had come from.
For me this is certainly one of the biggest highlights of the trip so far, although quite sad it was a fascinating insight into another world where people strive against all odds to make their lives just that little bit better.
Ate' mais tarde. ( see you later )
Tony x
1 - 5 Thousands of shanty's built from block or concrete, sewage outlet pipes, and wiring.
6. Rachel, local artist
7,8,9 Siesta time at infant school
10. Kids dancing
11. Pastry shop in the heart of the favela
12. Local wrist band seller
13. Concho makes an appearance
14. Recycling plastic bottles
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