There are three types of river in the Amazon basin, negro (black), branco (white) and claro (clear).
White rivers come from the Andes and are coloured from the young mountains and are loaded with nutrients supporting plants and animals.
Black rivers such as the Negro and the Urubu' originate in northern Amazonia and are slower, and warmer, resulting in the vegetation rotting and producing organic acids which turn the water black, which in turn kills the mosquito larvae resulting in far less Mosquitos . We are on the river Urubu', a black river, result, not many mossies. The river can flood by as much as 15 metres and its not far off this now, producing a floating forest.
We arrive at the lodge which looks impressive from the river as we board a floating pontoon and scramble up a series of steps to a large communal eating area with fantastic views over the surrounding jungle and river. Geoff and I are in the watch tower which is a well equipped room with two comfy beds, an en suite which comprised a working toilet, sink and a shower hose with about a 2 ft hose !! I suppose as long as your sitting :)) it's not a problem, it's an all in one operation first thing in the morning.
For the cheaper option there was a huge hammock area with lockers available which again looked out over the river. It's all been very well thought out and made from local timber creating a superb oasis in the middle of the jungle.
Our expedition consists of several canoe trips into the floating forest in hunt of animals, birdlife, vegetation and everything we would need to know to survive. One of our guides is called Christof who is a Peruvian Indian, one of fifteen. His grandmother was Japanese and there is a Japanese, Brazilian, Peruvian mix with 46 grandchildren. He is a smashing bloke and extremely knowledgeable.
No sooner had we arrived we had a delicious lunch and had a siesta until 3 pm then out in the canoes deep into the forest. The difference here is that you really have to work at finding the animals, they are extremely elusive, but you can hear them all around. Having said that almost immediately we spot a marsupial about 3 inches long. The forest is very tight around us and we have to work hard to weave our way through. Of course as the branches and leaves are touching you, you become extremely aware, your senses are at their best. A viper is spotted curled up asleep in the v of a tree, that's close enough thank you as we get to within a couple of feet. It wakes, this doesn't look good, thank god I'm at the back of the canoe. Suddenly it drops into the river and its off, camera snapping away, I am pleased its going in the opposite direction...paper please :)) I get a couple of good shots and we continue. It is fascinating as Christof explains and imparts so much knowledge. After a good couple of hours with a bit of piranha fishing thrown in, we head back. This trip is full on and after dinner we're back out for the night safari, a night canoe trip, back into the forest. It is fascinating but your senses are even more alert as " things " brush past you. Talk about jumpy ha ha. What was that, flicking at my ear and down my neck, and again. I swatted it good and proper. And again, bloody thing, swat, missed it was still there, I heard a snigger and it's Geoff with a long twig. I'll let you guess what I called him :)). We we're hunting caiman, spiders and anything else that decides to show itself. The noise from the canopy is incredible and Christof every so often will inform us what species it refers to. The reflections on the water are indescribable, at this time of night liquid mercury is very fitting.
After a couple of beers Geoff and I head off and sleep like logs. 0500 the alarm goes off and we're up and out for the sunrise canoe trip and of course the forest waking up. The river is totally flat calm, a steel blue best describes it, wonderful. As we make our way through the forest several birds sound the alarm, the fact that we're about. Another fantastic couple of hours and back for breakfast. The local ladies are great knocking up some incredible foods and fresh fruit. Next a three hour walk deeper into the jungle, of course after a canoe trip, to get to dry land. The knowledge that Christof imparts is incredible, the jungle being a living pharmacy. Every tree, plant or shrub holds some little treasure to be used in treating some ailment, to feed, to make, to burn. Trees for colds and coughs known as the Vicks tree, trees for quinine, clothing, string, fibre, rope, canoes, for communication, blowpipes, arrows, darts, bowls and ornamental objects, for constructing holdalls, baby holders, dyes, poisons the list is endless as was his knowledge. He explains they need this knowledge to survive, they have no doctors, medicines are expensive, these are natural remedies. He hit a tree hard so all the ants came out, hundreds, placed his hand on the tree thus covering his hand with ants which he then squashed in a washing motion before they could bite and hey presto natural insect repellant which smelt lovely. A few of us followed suit with only the occasional nip. He placed a small twig down a hole in the forest floor and waggled it about telling us to keep back and not to move. Unbelievably a huge spider the size of your hand and very angry popped out. After a couple of hours of this Eco university a strange noise crept into the forest, it sounded like we were approaching a waterfall. We were, a blooming monsoon downpour and we got absolutely drenched through to the bone. We trekked our way back to the canoes which had to be emptied before going anywhere. But instead of feeling down beat at being drenched I felt exhilarated, what an incredible experience, and it was going to get better.
Another siesta after getting out of the wet clothes. It was still drizzling so no option but to put all the wet stuff back on including sodden boots. An hour and a half trek deeper into the jungle with Geoff, Terry, Leslie, Lisa, Jeanne and Francois. Initially the tree canopy was ten foot tall but even these trees were over a hundred years old. As we progressed the canopy got higher, denser and more oppressive. We carried everything we needed for our overnight stay in the jungle. Although wet through we were in good spirits. We arrived at our makeshift camp and the first thing to do was go and collect firewood and make the fire for warmth and cooking. I dried my socks so well that when i put them on the toe end came straight off, must have been a bit too close !The fire roaring, clothes, boots hung around to dry Christof proceeded to show us how to make spoons out of certain wood. Of course we all made our own with his machete and we did a good job. The fire was started with some sap which smoked and kept the mossies away. Chicken pieces and local sausage were threaded onto sticks and left to slow roast, water boiling, rice, onions, carrots all in made a lovely flavoursome concoction. Palm leaves for plates and our spoons we were very happy, warm, well fed and totally knackered. Christof showed us some frogs, pointed out some more jungle trivia and identified numerous sounds. We have a tot of whiskey from Terry, some chocolate M&M's donated from Robin and biscuits and finally climbed into our hammocks after Christof just told us about a massive tarantula that climbed over his chest and face, nice one, not much sleep there then. We settled about 8.30 pm with the usual schoolboy humour, a bit of wind and shadow casting with head torches. As it was getting chilly we wrapped up, the jungle sounds getting louder, what was that, torch on, torch off, on, off until finally so tired we fell asleep. At 4.30 am dawn chorus, a few polite squeaks from Geoff and I as ladies present, but not Terry, what a bloody noise I thought he'd put his foot through his hammock, he stated he'd given it a bit of choke, we all fell about laughing, hilarious, we'd survived. A fantastic breakfast of boiled eggs, fresh fruits, coffee etc and off for another brilliant educational hike through the jungle. All packed up we head back to the Eco lodge, get our gear together, have another fantastic lunch and head back to Manaus each with special memories and hopefully some excellent photographs. What an amazing few days !!!!!
Adios
Tony x
1. En route in our canoes into the Amazon
2. Me n Geoff
3. Part of the Eco lodge
4. Amazon Rain Forest, boy did it rain
5. 3" Marsupial
6,7,8,9 Viper in various poses
10. Christof our Peruvian guide preparing bait for piranha fishing
11. Me being patient, no result
12. Beautiful little bird
13,14, 15,16 Water reflections are amazing
17, Christof on another expedition
18. Weaving our way deeper into the canopy
19. Me fully alert
20. 21. Spiders and baby cayman
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