At the start of the expedition Geoff and I decided we were going to complete the Death Road downhill mountain bike challenge. Scary stuff when you read the statistics. It has an incredible history which makes fascinating reading. Anyway I didn't mention it to Mum as I know you'd only worry and now it's too late as I'm back safe and sound :) with nothing more than a sore backside. Sorry Mum x
This road is just over 3.2 m wide, with precipitous cliffs dropping up to 600m and few safety barriers. At present it is part asphalt (32km) and the rest gravel. It was identified as the Worlds Most Dangerous Road by the Inter-American Development Bank given the number of fatal accidents that occurred over the years. On average 26 vehicles a year went over the edge along with cyclists resulting in a high death toll, at one point almost averaging one a day before 2008. In 1983 a flatbed truck plunged over the precipice killing the driver plus 100 passengers who were standing in the back in the worst accident ever recorded on this road. A new road has now been built which has taken the traffic away from the old road so it can be used exclusively for cyclists, support vehicles and tourist buses. 64 km with a 3600m vertical descent this road still has fatal accidents with over zealous guides, tourists not listening to instructions, poor equipment, bogus companies etc. As recent as 2012 a guide going too fast went over the edge and lost his life. The following day his companies boss went to the location to take photographs of the accident scene and slipped over the edge also killing himself. All along the trail there are crosses marking these unfortunate accidents and it certainly brings the message home to you.
The best decision made was that of going with Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking, what an excellent company. Top equipment and clothing, excellent guides, mechanics, briefings and most of all brilliant bikes, Kono downhill with Shimano gears.
We were collected at 0730 and ten of us, Kirsten, Rogan, Lisa, Vanessa, Sue, Anthony, Francois, Heather, Geoff, and I headed off on this fantastic day out. Clothing, helmets and gloves handed out en route, we reached the start where we were fully briefed again and given one to one instruction on our bikes. Good that, as this is only the second time I've been on a bike in 30 years. My bike a black Kono downhill, was named Thor, and I soon got to grips with it. All briefed we headed off on the tarmac road amidst snow covered mountains, it was freezing. We would descend through five different temperature changes ending up in the heat of the jungle. Long sweeping bends added to incredible speeds at the outset, truly breathtaking. The fact I hadn't been on a bike for 30 yrs didn't seem to make a difference. Geoff was in the same boat but nothing held him back, he was going hell for leather. Very soon the ice wind cut through, it started to rain with bits of sleet biting into you. The road was wet but I think we ended up going faster, trust your bike !!! We came out of the rain, obviously drenched, to a cold wind and made our first stop. Instructions received for the next stage we head off meeting oncoming vehicles overtaking on blind bends, great. Our safety gap from the bike in front was 3 seconds unless of course you were making a pass which with the adrenaline flowing was happening frequently. We came to a tunnel which after a fatal accident is now closed to cyclists so our first tester on a gravel road bypassing the tarmac. Hairy or what, wheels spinning, shale flying we again rejoined the tarmac and paid 25 Bolivars road tax to maintain the old road. Gradually getting warmer we continue descending and now back on the old gravel road until completion we definitely need to concentrate.
We have left the barren snow capped mountains and are now in thick jungle growth following the mountain sides with insane drop offs, incredible hairpin bends, switchbacks, waterfalls, all so beautiful but no time to admire, you need full concentration on the job in hand, that of completing the course in one piece. The major problem is the road is so narrow and your going so fast negotiating every minute deviation, it certainly focuses the mind. It's getting warmer, we're stripping the layers off, it is amazing. Hurtling down even faster as we gain confidence or maybe becoming more reckless, Geoff and I are whooping with laughter as we fly past The Prince of Guernsey, Robin, whose taken time out to join us on this epic trip :) ( he looked like Phileaus Fogg on a Penny Farthing ). On two occasions Geoff and I nearly lost control with the rear tyres losing traction and spraying gravel, the remedy, laugh insanely and peddle faster.
We descend into cloud and out the other side, bright sunshine and the journey ends after about four hours of maximum effort at altitude and intense concentration, fantastic, what an amazing achievement.......what could beat that. Think I spoke too soon. As we flew down the last section we past a sign stating " Flying Fox " a zip line that crosses three valleys, 1.5 km long, reaches up to 85 km an hour and is 360 m above the valley floor........yeaahhhhh. Mountain biking over and done with we head back up the mountain side, in a truck driven by a 10 year old, marvelling at the amazing scenery which we missed on the way down. We climb the last section to the launching platform, wow are we mad....I think we are. You have a choice to be seated or go superman, we decide to mix it up and do both. So Kirsten, Lisa, Vanessa, Sue, Robin, Francois,
Geoff and I take three high speed zip lines, shouting and screaming across the valleys, absolutely exhilarating, and great fun. As you head down the zip line at break neck speed you are waiting for a signal from the man at the bottom who is estimating your speed and produces a red flag for you to break or a green flag for you to continue. Hurtling down I anticipate a red flag, no show so no brake, hell for leather I continue to within a couple of metres of the platform and the red flag goes up, haha too late I hit the safety bag at a fair old rate and send a shower of water all over the front of my trousers looking like I'd wet myself.....well maybe I had. The last thing I saw was Kirsten laughing her head off which I captured on film.
That done we head off to an animal sanctuary for late lunch then it's back into the bus, which is a party bus complete with a dancing pole, could be dangerous !!!! Anyway the idea is we drive back up death road approx 3 hrs + to admire the jaw dropping scenery we missed coming down. It was incredible, stunning and frightening just realising how treacherous this road was but how spectacularly beautiful it was at the same time. So much so this called for a drink to celebrate and a stop was made to buy two, two litre bottles of cuba libra (rum and coke). A message from Geoff, "I'm not drinking" ok whatever. The music ramped up we all start singing and toasting the fact we'd had a great day and we're all in one piece. The drink was flowing and Geoff succumbed to a small one, well his first one anyway, after several, he was feeling no pain. The music got louder, the strobe lights started flashing, the drink was flowing and some of the girls started dancing around the pole. In all honesty they were rubbish and it took Geoff and I to show them how it was done. We were brilliant, it just all came together, what an incredible double act.......in reality what a pair of old tarts who were totally useless but had had such a great day.
In fact it was a great day all round due to the group of people that signed up for an adrenaline filled experience. So I thank all of you, it was, as Francois would say, SUPERB !!
Adios mes amigos
Not enough space on this blog for all the photos, one to follow.
Tony x
1-5. A reminder of how dangerous the road can be.
6. Start point high in the mountains
7-8. Geoff and I sipping the 96% alcohol in toast to Pachmama ( Mother Earth ) for safe passage
9. Freezing conditions high up
10-12. Me, Robin getting some clean air !!! And a pit stop.
13-16. Some of the scenery en route
17-18. Yours truly
19-21. Geoff, Robin and Vanessa
22-27. A scary corner, great photo opportunity
28. Kirsten
29-30. Final celebrations
What a fantastic adventure
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