The " W" trail, day two.

12th Decenber 2012.

Day two, were up early after a really good sleep, breakfast and hit the trek at a fair old pace only to be pulled up short as the trail climbs steadily upwards towards Camparmento Italian and Vale del Frances. We make good time and cut half an hour off our allotted time.
We push on feeling better than the previous day but are aware we are absolutely soaked through perspiration. We take regular drinks breaks sipping the cool glacial waters gushing down the mountainsides.
It's a wonderful place, surrounded by towering peaks, hanging glaciers, torrential rivers. Very tough going but we make Cammpartmento Brittanico. I dump the ruck sack with Geoff and head off a further 2 km higher to reach a viewpoint climbing up scree towards the snow line. Unfortunately the weathers not kind and were mostly surrounded by mist, but we still had views of the Cuernos and the Torres.
Tired we now have to retrace our footsteps back down the valley and head further east to our next refugio, it is tough but we are gradually getting acclimatised, the legs not screaming as much.

The water was delicious 

The flowers and shrubs stunning.

Most of the plants are protected species and are beautiful.

The views truly magnificent as we witness an avalanche.

Another hard but rewarding day, this really is a fantastic trail.

Can it get any better !!

Tony x

The " W ", Patagonia, Chile, ( day one )

11th December 2012

Early start and Pete provides a full fry up for those mugs attempting the " W " trail. It goes down well, large chorizo sausage, fried potatoes, onions, fried eggs, baked beans, cereals, toast, hams, cheeses, spreads and it goes on. I waddle off feeling rather content not realising what's to come.

Truck to Guarderia Pudeto to catch the catamaran across Lago Pehoe' to our first refugio, Paine Grande which turns out to be fantastic. A large log cabin complex with little lounges, leather sofas and all with wood burners. Little did I know how welcome this would be at the end of the day.

We're off, Geoff and I all full of enthusiasm on the first leg, 28 km round trip to Glacier Grey through some pretty tough terrain, tough but stunning. It's a steady pace with plenty of huffing and puffing through ravines, gorges, streams, waterfalls, and evergreen forests. Weather again very changeable hence the heavy rucksack containing gear for every eventuality.

A massive fire ripped through this national park last year. Unlike Australia this will take a long time to rejuvenate.

Beautiful towering mountains surround as you trek.

Some amazing bridges to get across with signs normally stating only one person at a time 

Yours truly looking slightly jaded.

Glacier Grey, our final destination before returning to our lodge. The trek back was pretty bad as the weather started to change. We arrived in horrendous conditions but dived into our warm abode for the forthcoming night, unlike the poor souls who opted for the tent option. If it hadn't have been so bad it would have been funny.....well it was really, tents and fly sheets flying all over the place. No sooner as the tent was pegged it was off again. The howling gale didn't stop and I thought a friendly wave every now and then would offer encouragement, two fingers being the usual response ha ha .age does have its benefits. Intact I was woken from a deep sleep at 0300 by another howling gale. , the tenties still struggling, ahhhhh I'll just turn over.

Here's to day two.

The " W " trail, day three

13th December 2012

Up early opening our cabin doors to a beautiful view across the lakes and mountains, so fresh and clean. Feeling really good today after another great nights sleep. A long trek ahead to refugio Chiliano but we start speed marching and running the flat sections and even some of the slight inclines. It works and we complete this section in one and a half hours way ahead of schedule.

We take an hour for lunch, refreshed we head up the final section of the trail. Again we run laughing like a couple of kids but this last section is really tough rising steeply to Mirador Les Torres. We come out of the wood and the rocks and scree seem to go on forever, we reach the final lip climbing over exhausted but end up dumbstruck .....the view is amazing, fairly clear but the colours of the granite towers are ever changing with the weather. What a sight, we remain sat for about two hours taking it all in, a truly fantastic place. It has all been worth the pain, sweat and exhaustion to get to this point.

Me in the thicker parts of the trail.

Some fantastic views.

We now move onto the finale and the awesome sight which met us at our target.

Absolutely stunning.

Totally knackered but well worth it.

Magical ! To many photos for this blog so after two hrs we hit the trail and jog the few miles back to our triple bunk beds and a well earn't rest. Constant perspiration has trimmed me up no end, the love handles have disappeared ha ha. 

Dinner at the refugio, all refreshed after a hot shower and the following morning we head back down the valley at a leisurely pace to meet the truck at refugio Torres which is a very plush place.

Heading South and into Torres Del Paine National Park, Chile

Truck all packed up and heading off after early morning pastries and coffee in a local coffee shop, such friendly people and of course WiFi.

A bleak outlook for the first erection of the tents.

On the road again and a baptism of fire as we are delayed and have to set up an impromptu bush camp, middle of the Steppe. We find a rocky boulder strewn semi circle and deploy the expedition tents. Half way through and the weather changes in a flash. Freezing torrential rain with terrific swirling winds which soak us to the bone and cake us with mud, what joy. Within twenty minutes its all change and the sun reappears to gently dry and warm the disgruntled overlanders. Dinners on and we sit in a semi circle enjoying a hot meal and an early night, long day tomorrow.

Five star camping !!

Up early and away back on the road heading through more and more Steppe. Slowly but surely the countryside is changing, more and more trees, shrubs and vegetation. We arrive at our bush camp and we spring into action choosing our pitches. Everyone is in a team, tent locker, security, cooking, cleaning and set up.....it's slowly becoming a well oiled machine.

We learnt that this sheltered area was where numerous animals that were ill or fatally injured came here to die. Numerous skeletons littered the area.

At last back and set up in this magnificent setting for four nights ready to complete the "W" trail which is comparable  in energy spent to three marathons. Bring it on. ,!!

We will see, may have bitten off more than I can chew.

Adios

The arrival of "Ithaca"

09.12.12
A leisurely day with a hike to Chorrillo del Salto, a waterfall in a wooded area about 4km from camp. Nice to stretch the legs after yesterday's route march.

After a chicken curry Ithaca arrived at 7pm, what a wagon and great to see her at long last. The lads, Pete and Grahame have driven solid for two and a half days to meet us here.

A toast with Quilimes (local beer) and a good look round our home for the next six months. Intact this continued in the local micro brewery where the stout went down well.

ITHACA 

Spares and the wood locker.

Yours truly kit all sorted ready for loading the wagon and getting on the road.

Well it really does start here, we have an early start to get on the road and have our first bush camp, try out the expedition tents and get the bush tucker on the go........lets see how it all goes.

Adios, Tony x

25km to Laguna Torre, Patagonia, training for the biggy

Early start !!
Up at 0500, packed the day sack and ready to go. Just getting light, but pleasantly cool for the start of the trek. Aussie Geoff, five others and me start a gently hill climb gently increasing to get the lungs burning. Flattening out at about 600metres we hit the valley floor, the pace quickens to quite a speed march taking in the magnificent views as the sun rises.

This is good training for what's to come, up and down dale so to speak, and I know I keep saying it but the views are really incredible. Heading towards glacier Grande where we intend to have lunch, the weather again changes, ice cold rain lashes us from behind, but the views change as well, onwards over and through evergreen stunted beech forests, heathland, scree and river beds. We made De Agostini look out in pretty good time, passing amazing shots of Mt Fitz Roy, Carro Solo and Lomo del Pliegue Tumbado which were all clear.

Anyway enough drivel lets get on with some piccies.

Patagonian hare.

Amazing little place which you could buy anything at !! Cool man, cool !,

My Fitz Roy towering above us.

Bird of prey with a watchful eye 

Changeable weather, magnificent .

Glacier Grande, our final destination.

The wind coming up off the glacier picked up the sand and grit, it was like being sandblasted. Good job I had a protective filter on the camera lens. Trekking back after a bite to eat the weather was glorious. Another great day in Tony's happy little life.

Los Glaciers National Park, Patagonia, El Chalten

Stage two of Los Glaciers National Park, a four hour drive around the park to El Chalten, a very small town which acts as base camp for many of the trails / treks in this region. In a valley surrounded by towering mountain peaks we stayed in a log cabin 10 x 8, 3 bunk beds and a load of small beasties. This was the last room available attached to the toilet block !!!! The toilet block, well there's a story. No u bends on the urinals, the waft of urine seeping back into the area mixed with the soiled paperwork which wasn't to go down the loo. On opening the door you gagged violently, trying not to laugh, however a few days here a you got used to it, a sweet pleasant aroma ha ha NOT !

Aside from that it is a magical place, the weather turning in a matter of seconds from blistering sun to rain laced with sleet hitting you at unbelievable speeds. The wind so fast with gusts within which knocked you off your feet. The air is so fresh and clean and you're able to drink the fresh glacial waters, you burn in minutes without protection it truly is amazing.

I've had one request from Butty for another penguin shot so here it is. There's a lot more Butty but you'll have to wait.

7th December, a good day, Happy Birthday to my sister Ali, thinking of you x

Back to work, nearly forgot outside our last hotel on arrival this old model Ford  T was outside, an Argentian owner who took great delight in showing me around.

More photos of the 25km trek I completed two days ago in preparation for the big "W" in Chile. Was absolutely knackered but what a trek, I slept well.

Concho the cat being hunted by a leopard 

Yours truly in a fantastic place.

Adios mes amigos till the next addition, wifi dependant.......

Tony