Wednesday 16 January 2013

Ibera National Park, Argentina.

Two long days on the road, getting hotter by the minute. We camp in a couple of beautiful sites right next to the river. Both nights we cook over open fires, great meals and plenty of smoke to keep the insects at bay. We've progressed through Rosario, Parana, and La Paz, some of it tough going as its not all tarmacadam roads. It's very hit an miss with varying levels of dirt tracks, gravel, stone and boulder. We've been lucky though the rain has held off, it could have doubled our journey time. The weather is getting a lot warmer and humid with it, any exertion results in heavy perspiration. The mosquitos are rife resulting in incredible amounts of frogs, birdlife and spiders? The wood locker is full, gathering timber as we go, the team has gelled into a well oiled machine and we're pleased to say we can now call ourselves "overlanders".

Up at 0445, showered and an early start after breakfast. It's a hot dusty day and we head for Esterios del Ibera, a delicate eco system, a truly magical area. The esteros (marshes) are made up of lakes, ponds, streams and floating islands formed by soil being intertwined with water lilies and other species of plant. Indeed some are so dense that trees now grow amongst them. This results in an incredible amount of wildlife including over three hundred species of birds.

We arrive at the campsite which is fantastic, right on the lake front, in amongst a tropical forest setting with good amenities. Tents up, showered and fed we plan for the following day. I decide to get up at 0500 and go out on a small boat with nine others and explore the marshes returning in time for breakfast. I also book the evening boat trip and the night walk into the forest....should be interesting.

Well the two boat trips were fantastic weaving in and out of these floating jungle islands and coming upon all manner of birds and animals. We saw the Capybara, biggest rodent in the world, munching on vegetation swimming amongst the islands and generally being very cute. We saw cayman, although looking menacing, were apparently harmless, as long as you stayed in the boat. this was followed by Southern screamers, kingfishers, great egrets, southern lapwing, red crested cardinals, golden breasted woodpecker and the list goes on. A great couple of trips with a very informative guide.

Already worn out due to quite a busy day, after half an hours break, we embarked on our final wildlife escapade, the big difference being it was in the dark. This area is teaming with all manner of bugs which are just waiting.........for dark !!! Why am I doing this ? We meet our guide and head off again in a boat to the forest, about ten minutes away. He is keen and informs us if we're lucky we could see cayman, capybara, spiders, snakes.......snakes what's lucky about that. Straight away there's about a thousand pair of eyes upon us as the torch light picks up the cayman just below water level. Great ! Lets move on, what was that rustling ? We head deeper into the jungle along little used paths, creepers hanging down like a scene from Tarzan. The torch lights pick up all manner of webs, plant life, roosting bird life, and a marsh deer coming straight towards us along the narrow track. It turns off a few feet in front of us and immediately disappears. Next a seven banded armadillo, beautiful little thing scuttles off amongst the vegetation. We head deeper into the undergrowth, the going gets tough as the mud comes up to your ankles but my meidel boots hold out and my feet stay warm and dry. Unfortunately my courage fails as we stand and listen. I feel something on my neck, crawling slowly along my collar, shit ! its a spider or could it be a snake, quick turn a bloody light on get it off. The lights come on and there's an Aussie dickhead called Geoff with a twig and a leaf with a big cheesy grin. Standing tall and puffing the old chest out I laughed along stating I knew it was you, good laugh haha..... Good job I've some toilet paper in my pocket, now come on, lets get this bloody trek over and done with. An hour and a half later we march back into camp exclaiming what a great trek it was, amazing etc etc no need to do that again in a hurry :)) Unfortunately the Amazon is looming and no doubt hunting snakes and the like will become the norm, brilliant, what's that smell ?

Adios, the journey continues.

Tony x



























2 comments:

  1. Are you sure that you are taking these photos?? Looks like a right professional is doing them !!

    Keep it up Tony

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  2. Do you know - I'm sure I saw that picture of the two birds - on Corrie the other night!!
    (Excellent photography really!)I suppose the next trip will be round the world research for your latest book?
    Keep safe - Love you xx

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